May 12 2011
What do Marvin Shanken and Johann Rupert have in common? Besides having – as publisher of Wine Spectator and owner of LΓò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£├╗Ormarins respectively – a bit of influence on the wine world, that is.
Well believe it or not, but both have a bit of a culinary soft-spot for the South African Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£Γöñ and truly South African Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£Γöñ item known as a braaibroodjie.
Having braaied (barbecued for those not familiar with or ignorant of local custom) my way around the world, I can say that the braaibroodjie is as South African as triple brandy-and-cokes, tight-butted rugby cheerleaders and politicians using toilets to drive election campaigns. No other barbecue-practising nation makes a braaibroodjie.
Translation is virtually impossible, but Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö¼├║barbecue toastieΓò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö¼├æ is as close as I can get. Because this satisfying side-dish, without which any braai is incomplete, is nothing more than a toasted sandwich prepared in an and iron or steel grid over open coals.
When Shanken spent a week on Rust en Vrede Estate last year he was apparently so obsessed with the braaibroodjie that he photographed an album full of pictures of the toastie in various stages of preparation to show the folks back home. When attending a braai, Rupert spends more time ensuring the braaibroodjie is prepared to perfect personal requirements than any other part of the occasion.
That two men of this stature, who can drink Petrus and DRC at whim and have dined at more three star Michelins to remember are beguiled by such a modest thing as a braaibroodjie speaks volumes for the properties of this golden, hot bread thingy.
So for those who have not embraced the braaibroodjie as a non-negotiable part of outdoor-cooking, get with the programme. After all, you donΓò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£├╗t need a cordon bleu to make it.
For one braaibroodjie:
- ╬ô├╢┬╝╬ô├▓├╗ Two slices buttered bread, commercial white Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£Γöñ no organic hand-kneaded ciabatta nonsense
- ╬ô├╢┬╝╬ô├▓├╗ Sliced tomato
- ╬ô├╢┬╝╬ô├▓├╗ Grated cheese: one half gouda, one half chedder
- ╬ô├╢┬╝╬ô├▓├╗ Thinly sliced onion rings
- ╬ô├╢┬╝╬ô├▓├╗ Salt and pepper.
Make a sandwich with the above. (If you canΓò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£├╗t do this, donΓò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£├╗t bother to read further and: shame on you.)
Place the closed sandwhich in a closed steel braai-griddle. It has to be one of those hinged griddles that allows you to enclose the sandwich on both sides. You canΓò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£├╗t flip this on a Weber, big guy.
Barbecue the sandwich over the coals as you would a lamb chop. Frequent turning is required to ensure the bread does not blacken. And timing is of the essence. A braaibroodjie with cheese that has not melted should be punishable by death.
Depending on the heat of your coals, three minutes on each side should do it. But like most barbecue-items, practise makes perfect.
I make a perfect braaibroodjie, being a Dutchman and all. And whilst enjoying one this week I washed the crumbs down with a very fine Chardonnay.
It was the Rhebokskloof 2009. What made it so good was the perfect balance between fruit Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£Γöñ especially citrus and melon Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£Γöñ and a lean, firm acid structure. To me this wine exudes all that is good about SA Chardonnay: sun in the vineyard, clean and fresh on the palate, depth and complexity of the unintimidating kind Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£Γöñ all leading to perfect varietal characteristic. Wooding is meticulously modest, allowing for structure and balance without the chunk and splinters.
Although the region where Rhebokskloof is situated Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£Γöñ Paardeberg side of Paarl Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£Γöñ is a Chenin Blanc Holy Grail Γò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£Γöñ this Chardonnay shows that the potential of the noble Burgundian whitey in that area must not be underestimated. There are great soils there, and with Chardonnay not being afraid of a bit of heat, this valley could add to the diverse spectrum of South African Chardonnays.
If Shanken came to report on this, IΓò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö£├╗ll keep him filled with braaibroodjies for some timeΓò¼├┤Γö£├ºΓö¼┬¼..