Aug 03 2011
SA Wines go on Show in Burgundy
Heading out to Beaune, France in September, my Frog Mates have asked me to present a tasting in Pommard. I love doing tastings in Burgundy. Most would think it is all quiet, serious, scientific and critically French.
Not on your auntΓÇÖs bidet.
Each time IΓÇÖve presented to wine-makers, buyers and the odd hack it ends up in a raucous piss-up that makes the Swartland Revolution look like a Papal funeral. But in between the slurping, joking and break for a quick Gitanes, there are weighty topics being discussed, but in a very relaxed and amiable vibe.
“Just don’t tell them back in South Africa that in Burgundy we have more leaf-roll virus than the whole of your country!” is the kind of bantering that goes on. “And thank you for not bringing Pinotage – it makes the Algerian labourers’ teeth fall out….”
Well, this year I am bringing Pinotage, Monsieurs. The final decision has not quite been made, but the Kanonkop Black Label 2006 will be poured blind and IΓÇÖll bet you a piece of Carla BruniΓÇÖs bra-strap that none of you are going to spot it is Pinotage. As I mentioned in a previous missive, this is one wine with which South Africa can really take on the top-end of the wine world.
Obviously, an easy-drinking Pinotage will also be included. Burgundians are very keen on gluggable wines. Friendly juice, they call it.
The other day I copped a Rhebokskloof Pinotage 2010. Wow. What a beaut. Really perfume- like and floral, like a Volnay with a bit of Royal Jelly added to it, I kid you not. Supple and fragrant. Silky mouth-feel. Rose petal, smoked sweet pepper, unctuous red fruit with cinnamon. Just a hint of metallic Pinotage-riffs. At around R50 a bottle, a real corker.
Really impressed by the stuff coming out of Rhebokskloof, although I thought the Shiraz would be a killer, which it ainΓÇÖt.
Then the Burgundy crowd always want some South African interpretations of ΓÇ£theirΓÇ¥ wines. This time IΓÇÖm hauling Chardonnay.
Great showing two styles, two terroirs. Paul Cluver 2009. Sure, cool climate, but it does have a whack of sunny fruit. Still a splinter of new wood on the nose, but fruit and structure are compelling. Sexy citrus, beguiling apricot and a spicy breath. A great, great wine although IΓÇÖd like to hear what the French have to say about the ageing-potential of such a fantastic wine under screwcap.
Then from Robertson IΓÇÖm luggingThe Site 2009. Of Danie de WetΓÇÖs oldest vineyards, this is No 9 Dijon clone. Robertson means lime. So we are talking really mineral in the Corton Charlemagne league. Almost a year in wood, but any trace of plank has disappeared. Citrus and grilled nuts. A length like a Samurai sword. Tight grip on the rear palate, sensual array of earthy, fruity, spring-flower flavours upfront.
ItΓÇÖs a pleasure, Monsieurs, I am to please.